The Art of Mole Trapping - Using the Scissor Trap
Preparation
When digging the hole, make sure you don’t dig it out too wide. The trap is fairly small, and you ideally want the claws to be hidden, recessed into the side walls of the tunnel.
It is very important that you make sure there are no stones in the bottom of the tunnel that could jam in the claws and prevent them from closing properly. Similarly, if the soil is very hard, it is worth ‘turning it’ in order loosen it. This can be done easily with a trowel. Alternatively, pour some water on it which should soften it. You should then use a tamping tool to re-smooth the bottom.
Setting
Arm the trap by squeezing the handles together and placing the trigger plate in between the two jaws. Make sure that the trigger placement is central, and that the retaining wire will not prevent triggering.
Place the trap in the hole, seating it down so the trigger plate is 1-1.5cm above the floor of the tunnel and the claws are recessed into the side walls of the tunnel. You may need to ‘work it in’. Once it is in position, give the handles a squeeze so the trigger drops out, and then let go.
Do this a few times until there are good grooves in the floor and the trap springs shut quickly. Finally re-smooth the tunnel to remove any fallen debris, reset the trap, and place.
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Seal and Cover
For this trap you will need quite a lot of turf, or a ‘mat’ of long grass, to support the coverings. This is because there is a lot of open space around the set trap and you don’t want earth to fall down into the tunnel.
Separate the turf / grass into two halves and place them either side of the handles. Then seal with earth, gently compacting to seal any gaps or holes. Cover as necessary.
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Checking
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It is fairly common to find a live mole in one of these traps, either pinched but not dead, or simply caught by the foot. Be prepared to dispatch the mole quickly with a sharp blow to the nose with a trowel.
Trap Maintenance
Before setting, make sure to brush off any dried on dirt / mud. If the trap becomes rusty, don’t use an oil or lubricant. Simply use a wire brush to remove the rust.
When not in use, do not store the trap in the set position. As well as gradually weakening the springs, this will present a hazard to anybody that happens across it.
Get a Good One
Many scissor traps suffer from three flaws: one, the spring is not strong enough, resulting in a slow death for the animal and sometimes an escaped trap; two, the trigger is too stiff, so the the trap is not sensitive enough; three, the legs are too long, so the trigger plate sits too high and is not set off.
Test the strength of the springs by gently lowering the jaws onto your finger. If it is not particularly painful, then find a different model. You can experiment with setting the trigger at an angle for more sensitivity, but this is really a limitation of the design. Look for legs that are shorter and more curved, rather than straight.
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