The Art of Mole Trapping - Using the Trap
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Once you have decided on a site for your trap, the next thing to learn is how to set it properly. As each design of trap is slightly different, you will need to approach this in a slightly different way.
It is impossible to cover the setting techniques for all the different traps, but the four most effective killing traps (the EasySet, the Duffus, the Scissor, and the Talpex) and the best live capture trap (the Tube Trap) are each described in turn in the following sections.
Firstly, we look at the general idea and each of the stages since many of them are the same:
1) Which Way?
Before you start digging, you should check which direction the tunnel goes in. Although it might appear obvious, and tunnels usually run from the probe point to the nearest mole runs, they can go in pretty much any direction.
Lay your trap down on the ground on its side, so you get the length right, and probe in a circle around the first ‘strike’. It may be helpful to place a stick or marker in the first hole so you don’t lose track of it. When you find the tunnel again, you could also mark this point. The two strike points will tell you the direction of the tunnel.
[photo]
2) Uncover the Tunnel
It is now time to uncover the tunnel. Ideally this will be done with a spade making just 4 cuts, creating a single solid sod of turf. If you ‘hack’ at it, or use too small a tool (such as a trowel) you will cause more damage to the lawn than is strictly necessary.
First, make two cuts perpendicular to the line of the tunnel. One cut at each of the strike points. Second, make two further cuts parallel to the line of the tunnel, and angled slightly so that they are aimed about an inch from the line of the tunnel. Use either the spade or a trowel to carefully lift the sod out. It should be a trapezoidal shape – see photo – with the run visible at the bottom.
[photo]
In good firm soil, the run will be obvious, entering through one wall of the hole and leaving through the opposite wall. In looser or dry soil, it may be difficult to see. Use a small trowel or a finger to feel for the softer soil that has fallen into the tunnel.
3) Clear and Prepare
Start by using a small trowel to lift out any loose earth from the bottom of the hole, and also from the tunnels leading to the hole. Be careful not to collapse the roof. Put this loose soil to one side.
The next steps vary depending upon the trap type. See the individual sections for more details. In general, you should feel in the bottom of the run for any obstructions such as roots or stones. Small stones should be removed; large stone are often easier to push down further into the ground and out of the way. Roots can be cut and removed. Do not pull on them as this will often ruin your trapping site.
Finally, smooth the tunnel floor with a tamper or with your fingers in preparation for the trap.
4) Set the Trap
Essentially, place the trap in the run. There is more to it that that though, and each trap needs to be done a little differently. See the individual trap sections for more details.
5) Seal and Cover
Again, this does depend on the trap type, but in general you should try to make sure that no light gets through into the tunnel, and that any earth / grass used to plug the gaps doesn’t jam the mechanism.
Most traps will be powerful enough to push a light covering out of the way, but a stone in the wrong place could scupper you.
You should also make sure that the trap is settled in, and cannot be dislodged or moved by the mole. If it wobbles as the mole enters, or can be ‘dug’ out, you will have less success.
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Small gaps around the sides can be sealed with earth from a molehill or earth knocked from the bottom of the sod you dug out. Larger gaps can be easily bridged with a slice of turf.
If there is livestock in the area, the trap is deep, or if you expect very heavy rain you may want to cover it. A deep trap can be covered with a piece of slate, plywood, or the original sod. A shallow trap is best covered with an upturned bucket.
6) Mark the Spot
It is usually a good idea to mark where you have set a trap, especially if they are deep in the ground. This will serve as a warning to others, and also help you find the trap when you return to check it. A stake with a small strip of coloured tape is a good idea, but you could use pretty much anything.
[photo]
Some of the smaller traps or traps that need to be covered fully may benefit from a length of coloured string / hazard tape tied to one of the springs / ends. This will not affect the operation, but will make it easier to retrieve if the marker stick is moved for any reason.
7) Tidy Up
Once you have set all of your traps, it is usually a good idea to kick over the mole hills in the area. If you rake the soil out over the grass, then it will eventually ‘settle in’ and not cause damage. Otherwise you could use a large spade to pick up a whole hill and move it off to one side; it will usually be good quality top-soil and perfect for potting.
If you have dug out sections of turf, these can be left to one side and put back when you are done. In hot weather, they should be placed in the shade to prevent them from drying out.
8) Checking Back
Generally the rule is to check back after 24 hours. Moles are very active and visit most parts of their ‘active’ burrow regularly. Sprung traps will be easy to see and should be lifted.
If there is no mole, and it is full of soil, clear out the tunnel and trap and reset. If there is a mole, then you have two options:
One; if you believe that you have found a main run, bury the mole somewhere nearby, repair the tunnel, and reset the trap. You will have a good chance of catching another. Revisit in 2-3 days’ time. If you keep catching in this location, and there is a large scale problem you might decide to leave the trap down semi-permanently. This is likely if the tunnel is an access point to the trapping area.
Two; if you believe that you are catching in spur tunnels, or in the feeding grounds, bury the mole in the trap site, repair any damage to the turf, and site the trap elsewhere.
If the trap has not been sprung, you should still lift it to check that it has not been filled in. Clear it out as necessary and reset up to 3 more times. If you still have not caught anything you are probably in a dis-used or ‘inactive’ spur. Try setting elsewhere.
In the unlikely event that the mole is not dead, you should be ready to dispatch him quickly. It is not nice, but leaving him is cruel since he will no doubt have sustained significant injuries. The best way is to leave him in the trap, place the trap on the ground, and hit him hard on the nose with a trowel. Don’t be shy, harder is better than not hard enough.
Other Trap Types
We can’t cover every trap here, so if you have a different one, you will need to infer the best techniques. If you’ve read this section, and the sections on specific traps that follow, you probably understand the goals, and common sense should suffice.
However, in summary what you are trying to achieve is:
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